Sunday, June 18, 2017

Assemble the wood frame...

We opted for a wood frame, because it seemed like a solid option. We are building according to CS-R blueprints for R2D2,  (revised). We found another member through the Astromech forum that does a run on wood frames. This is made from Ukrainian Birch Wood, exported to USA, CNC-cut and now exported back to Sweden. I guess thats 0-1 for the Climate, but still we got a great looking frame here. I did ask local companies but they did not seem to interested in minimal order of 1 unit, and they just said that I could possible ask local carpenters. So I did ask a couple of those, but seemed busy at the moment.

I guess this was the shortcut instead of cutting the frame ourselves.

If you ignore the RC plane at the far side of the table, the rest of the pieces are our wood frame! :)


Test assemble... we started watching the youtube video I have linked before, but quickly noted that in the video they are using the CS-L frame instead of this one, so we chose to look at the pictures provided by the seller, and we had no problems putting it together.


Fitted, but not glued together...


And ofc we just had to testfit some of our 3D printed pieces so far... 



We did also make a test using cell-foam for filling up parts of the frame which is not needed for eiter details or hatches. We are guessing that it could give some support for the outer-layer-skin and also may give some extra support to the frame and make for a more solid construct. This kind of cell foam doesn't really add any extra weight to the R2 unit.


That's all for now...

Friday, June 16, 2017

3D printing tools...

We have a lot of sanding to do, so one step is to find ways to sand effectively in all the angels. So this is an example of what to do. Olof Geelnard designed this for our use on the R2D2 unit. This is designed at https://www.tinkercad.com/


And this is the printed result, lower polygon count at the bottom to have a better grip when inserted, and the highest resolution at the top, so that is quite solid and sterdy:




And this is how it works...

video

Wednesday, June 14, 2017

R2-D2 Builders Club...

Apply for your membership: http://astromech.net/forums/forum.php



With a members counting at around 40.000 persons, there is a lot of knowledge available at the Astromech forum. Free membership, easy to join! :)

Sunday, June 11, 2017

Death Star plans...

I guess an R2 unit really should have a copy of this file...   just for screen accuracy!



video

Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgpTHHP-WSA

Help me Obi-Wan Kenobi, you are my only hope...

video


Something like this, to put on a projector screen from our R2D2 unit perhaps? This is Rob Meyer's re-edited Leia message. He actually captured the scene and then edited it frame-by-frame  in photoshop. A crude way, but effective way. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tf-1xeE3zzE

Filler and sanding...

Apart from 3D printing alot of pieces there is also all the work with perfecting every part after printing is done. We chose to do all the prints in high-resolution to make it easier to make a nice finish...




R2D2:s arm from the front, there is suppose to be two of them. These are composed of 3d prints that are made in four seperate parts, then glued together. There is a lot of sanding, filler spray, sanding, then more filler spray, several layers...

so there is four parts on each arm, they are printed two at a time, And there is three pieces of sort of like a box, where the arm is folded inside, which are also printed. These three parts (not shown in picture) also takes around 8 hours each, to print in high resolution, and these arms have about 14-16 hours of printing in them already. And that does not include all the work that goes into perfecting the object afterwards...

This is sort of like half way through the process! A lot more hours to go!

Saturday, June 10, 2017

Attaching servos to the holo lenses...

So we were really wondering about an effective sollution for the attachment of servos to the hololenses. Just attaching them directly to the 3D printed hololens-part didn't really sit that well with me.

Today I saw this, as another member at the forum, Mowee has made this great printable frame! And it's available as an .stl file through the Astromech.net forum!




It never stop to amaze me, how wonderful this hobby is with all the engineering details, little projects that the community seem to find nice sollutions to, one piece at the time...

Friday, June 9, 2017

Just received the Teeces lightsystem...

...and now it's fully operational! Here we have added some temporary frames just to test out the system but it seem to be functioning just fine!

video

We are really happy with the way it has turned out! The frames we have 3D printed, the tubes are pvc piping, so we got those together with the light-kit. The logics run off of a arduino, and Curiousmarc has originally written the code!



Just some close-ups!

Thursday, June 8, 2017

Running the dome...

Just looking at others solution for the dome... basically it goes something like this:





...and that is what makes the dome able to spin around and around and around... the bolts can't be to long as they will hinder the movement as you place it on the slipring.

The engine you can find here but also at alot of other places too:
https://www.amazon.com/12Vdc-Right-Angle-Drive-Electric/dp/B005IR1NBA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1421189468&sr=8-5&keywords=seat%20motor

But there is some assembly required, so here is a basic tutorial from youtube:


Noted is that we will probably go in a different direction since these kinds of engines can be a bit loud, they have a high-pitch...so some kind of high-torque engine, we will get back to you on that one as we look into other solutions... 

R2D2 electronics sketch...

Basically the Marcduino set-up goes something like this! Teeces lightsystem and 16 servos to control the dome functionality with all hatches open and close, two servos to each holo-lens, and a wifly socket because Marcduino has his own app for running the R2 unit. Extremly well-written program if you ask me!

Basic sketch:



Here Marc demonstrates the R2 touch - app, available at the appstore, and more currently also for android as I have heard! We are going to see if we can get this kind of functionality into our R2 unit because when someone already made a system with high-functionality it would be kinda stubborn to develop another system that would be far worse. If the support ends for this app we will make our own controller though.



We are also currently looking at different motors for the feet-drives. An Astromech can weigh about 60 kg so there is alot of weight to pull around!

Wednesday, June 7, 2017

Testing Arduino...

This is an easy assembly from a Arduino Uno kit, trying out the code just for fun and see how the system works. Mostly because I hadn't tried it before.

Basically connect like this:



/*
*
*
*/
#include <LiquidCrystal.h> // includes the LiquidCrystal Library
LiquidCrystal lcd(7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12); // Creates an LC object. Parameters: (rs, enable, d4, d5, d6, d7)

int backLight = 13; // set pin 13 to control the backlight;

void setup() {
  // put your setup code here, to run once:

 lcd.begin(16,2); // Initializes the interface to the LCD screen, and specifies the dimensions (width and height) of the display }
 lcd.print("hello, world!");

 pinMode (backLight, OUTPUT);

digitalWrite(backLight,HIGH);

lcd.clear();

lcd.begin(16,2);

lcd.setCursor(0,0);

lcd.print("Hello, World"); // can change any words you want;

lcd.setCursor(0,1);

lcd.print("I feel good!"); // can change any words you want;

}

void loop() {
  // put your main code here, to run repeatedly:

 delay(3000);
 lcd.clear(); // Clears the display

 lcd.print("Arduino"); // Prints "Arduino" on the LCD
 delay(3000); // 3 seconds delay
 lcd.setCursor(2,1); // Sets the location at which subsequent text written to the LCD will be displayed
 lcd.print("Makes magic");
 delay(3000);
 lcd.clear(); // Clears the display
 lcd.blink(); //Displays the blinking LCD cursor
 delay(4000);
 lcd.setCursor(7,1);
 delay(3000);
 lcd.noBlink(); // Turns off the blinking LCD cursor
 lcd.cursor(); // Displays an underscore (line) at the position to which the next character will be written
 delay(4000);
 lcd.noCursor(); // Hides the LCD cursor
 lcd.clear(); // Clears the LCD screen

 }

I did not clean up this code, so use it for what it is, just a test!